More Light

One beautiful German word is "Abendstimmung", which would translate as "evening mood", although in German it has a bit more gravitas I think. Funny, I can't think of a good Turkish word or phrase that would express that mood. That's the beauty of languages; each has its own landscape of meanings that correspond to the cultural cosmos of the people speaking it. Anyway, back to Abendstimmung. Three years ago I visited an exhibition called "More Light" ("Mehr Licht" in German) in Düsseldorf's Kunstpalast, which explored 19th century oil studies in open nature. There I saw this painting by Carl Robert Kummer titled "Abendstimmung an der Elbe", depicting an evening scene at the river Elbe in Dresden. I was so impressed, I had a hard time moving on to other paintings, and even came back to it several times, studying it further.

The clouds, especially the ones on the diagonal, the silvery water, and that bold arc of the river...what an inspirational painting. 

Just like those 19th century romantic painters, I guess many of us try to make our own Abendstimmungs when the evening light starts to shift to the purples and reds, right? Well, here are two of my humble attempts made along the Rhine last year.

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A major exhibition tends to have an exhibition catalogue; I try not to miss those. They tend to have loads of informational essays and one can enjoy the paintings (or photos etc.), although in admittedly inferior reproduction, for many more years. Look, the lovely small Elbe painting even made it to the cover of this catalogue!

Views of a Landmark

Legend has it that in the year 1632 Hezarfen Ahmet Çelebi flew with wings he cobbled together, supported by strong scirocco winds, from the top of Istanbul's Galata Tower all across the Bosphorus and landed in Usküdar, about 3.5 km towards the east. Many historians dispute the truth of this story for various reasons, one being that the only source mentioning this event is a short entry in the travelogue of the Ottoman traveller Evliya Çelebi. He concludes that sultan Murat the IVth watched the alleged flight from his palace and eventually declared "this is a man to be scared of; such people should not be kept alive" and exiled Ahmet Çelebi to the farthest corner of his realm, Algeria. There, at the ripe old age of 30, Ahmed Çelebi died. His nickname "Hezarfen" means "man of a thousand sciences".

Hezarfen's departure point, the Galata Tower is one of the most prominent landmarks of Istanbul and therefore often appears in my  (and others') cityscapes, intentionally or not:

While I was crossing Galata Bridge over the Golden Horn, I was delighted to see the tower reflected in the window (of one of the bridge's support structures). In order to add an extra layer to the photo, I waited for one of the many fishermen pull his protein out of the sea. Or maybe it's the tower that's the extra layer!

Sometimes the tower is just "there"...

...and sometimes I make a conscious effort to photograph the tower. This is very much a cliche, a view from the garden of the Süleymaniye Mosque over the chimneys of the neighbouring medrese (a school in the Ottoman days).

All three photos were made on the same day whilst on a short trip to Istanbul over last Christmas. I used to bring along analog cameras and B&W film on my travels. But it's become so cumbersome with the security procedures and the constant anguish that the film might get fogged in the x-ray machines, especially now that CT Scanners are being gradually installed, that I now prefer a Nikon DSLR while travelling. I still use my old manual focus Nikkors though, as they are extremely rugged and perform like a charm. Here, the first two pictures were made with the humble but superb AI 50mm/f1.8 and the last one with the AI 200mm/f4.0 Nikkor, which again is optically excellent and relatively compact.

Totally unrelated to my musings above, I'd like to recommend this documentary about Dorothea Lange. It's been uploaded to Youtube just a few days ago. I watched the 2 hour documentary twice, I found it that good. What an amazing photographer she was but what a sad end she had to face.